Y/Project Fall ’23 at Paris Fashion Week.
If Senjan Jansen’s soundtrack created for Glenn Martens’ Y/Project Fall 2023 show during Paris Fashion Week remixed 58 different interpretations of Handel’s famous aria “Lascia ch’io pianga,” the collection itself was a symphony of denim — remastered in countless iterations.
It came vertically patched together with multiple seams creating bulbous volumes, as distressed embroidery embellishing sweats, tweed coats, floor grazing chiffon gowns and regal denim-on-denim kaftans alike — as intricately wrought as that of Chanel’s métiers d’art atelier Lesage.
Y/Project Fall ’23 at Paris Fashion Week.
Those Y/Project signature waist-high boots — somewhere between a wader and a cuissard — segued into what may or may not have been actual jeans while new versions came with snap buttons so they could be sculpted at the wearer’s pleasure.
Bags too came in twisted denim, shaped with interior wire — another classic Y/Project motif or with denim embroidery featuring the Y/Project coat of arms complete with Eiffel Tower. FYI Martens has always thought big: he created the latter 10 years ago shortly after his appointment to the label.
There were straight up more commercial takes on the jean too of course, or as straight up as it gets with a Y’Project jean while denim also insinuated itself even where it wasn’t — into an ‘is it or isn’t it?’ trompe l’oeil effect on a shirt.
Y/Project Fall ’23 at Paris Fashion Week.
Elsewhere, stills from pornographic movies, artfully cropped in a nod to semi-decency, were printed on dresses and separates that recalled the sex positive framing of Martens’ Diesel collection that showed a couple of weeks ago in Milan to a backdrop of some 200,000 boxes of Durex prophylactics.
The Jewelry comprising hand signals, created with consultant Stephanie D’Heygere, which Martens debuted for Spring, made a return, giving the finger to anyone thinking denim is just something for the weekend.
Y/Project Fall ’23 at Paris Fashion Week.
Y/Project Fall ’23 at Paris Fashion Week.
Source: https://www.forbes.com/sites/stephaniehirschmiller/2023/03/11/yproject-brought-a-symphony-of-denim-to-paris-fashion-week/