The Magical Minervois Wine Region Of Southern France

After years of living in the Bordeaux wine region of southeastern France, I recently moved to live for some months in the Minervois wine region in the south. The impact of moving here is immediate: vegetal scents differ; dusk light is altered; landscape colors are changed in richness and vibrancy. Many wines here are surprisingly delicious—with a palatable price/quality ratio for any wallet.

The nation of France is divided into 18 administrative regions, of which 13 are located within Europe. These ‘regions’ were created in 1982 and their number alters over time. One region in southern France was known as Languedoc-Roussillon, which was later amalgamated with another region to become Languedoc-Roussillon-Midi-Pyrénées. That’s quite a mouthful. By 2016, this region became known as Occitanie. This has an area of 72,724 square kilometers (28,079 square miles), which is larger than the U.S. state of West Virginia, but smaller than the state of South Carolina, or larger than the country of Ireland, but smaller than the Czech Republic.

Vine growers and wine makers, usually eyeing a long game rather than any rapid vagaries of political change, are reluctant to alter names and boundaries of local appellations. Therefore, within Occitanie, the Languedoc-Roussillon appellation name endures. It is comprised 90% of Languedoc wines and 10% of wines from Roussillon. This, the largest wine producing region of France, has an area of 27,400 square kilometers (10,580 square miles), which is about the size of the U.S. state of Maryland or the European country of Albania. It is also the largest geographically intact wine producing region in the world.

Languedoc (not Roussillon) includes 23 controlled origin wine appellations (designated with the initials AOC or AOP). The balance of wines are classified as Indication Géographique Protégé, or IGP. One of the larger Languedoc appellations is AOC Minervois, which includes 24 villages and produces some 16 million bottles of red, white and rosé wines each year.

Wine was brought to the Minervois (and other regions of the Languedoc) by Greeks in the sixth century BCE, yet production ramped up with the spread of the Roman Empire. The Minervois wine region is named after the village of Minerve, which in turn is named after Minerva—Roman goddess of war, fighter for just causes and spreader of civilization. She was also a virgin goddess of music, wisdom and crafts (wine making may be considered so) and was associated with the Greek goddess Athena, as well as with owls and olive trees (which are ample throughout Languedoc-Roussillon). Minerva was the best known, and perhaps the most respected, Roman goddess.

Within Minervois, red wines are generally made from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvédre and Lledoner Pelut grapes as well as Carignan, Cinsault, Piquepoul, Terret and Rivairenc. Whites may include Marsanne, Roussanne, Muscat Blanc, Maccabeu, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache, Vermentino (Rolle), Piquepoul, Terret Blanc and Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. AOC appellation regulations require wines be blended from at least two grape varieties. Because many winemakers crave experimentation, you will also find wines made from grapes such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

Chameleon reptiles change their hue for two few principal reasons. They can alter skin color to a small degree to match the local environment. This lets them blend in and avoid being spotted by hungry predators. Yet they can also brazenly flash different colors during competition—when facing another male, or while dazzling a female during courtship.

Minervois wines share similarities. Subtle differences in aromas and flavors allow most to match local characteristics of terroir, but—occasionally—wines flash singular and sometimes dazzling profiles that can light up your senses. In other words, a regional style is punctuated by surprises. This duality results in agreeable inconsistency—harmonious familiarity often jolted.

Below is a sampling of just a few Minervois wines worth seeking out. If you visit the region, stop and speak with a local sommelier to get recommendations (such as Anne-Sophie Anache in the small but superb Vigne Vierge wine story in the village of Aigne).

Red Wines:

Mas Champart. Causse de Bousquet. Saint-Chinian Controlée. 2018. 94 – 95 points.

A 70/13/12/5 Syrah/Grenache/Carignan & Cinsault/Mourvèdre blend. Barrel aged for 12 months. Rich, layered and balanced aromas of morels, blue and black berries. In the mouth—chewy and rounded with flavors of dark fruit; a long and suave licorice finish.

Chateau Maris. Grenache. Minervois. 2022. 95 points.

Sleek flavors of dark red plums and Oreo biscuit flavors. Layered with silky tannins. There is eating and drinking here, and this will pair well with roasted meats, bulgur or truffle risotto.

Château Maris. Syrah. 2021. 96 points.

A piquant aroma for first nose, followed by blocks of cooking chocolate, some baking spices such as nutmeg and even a hit of tarragon. Slippery delight in the mouth and across the tongue—well-crafted with rum-warm flavors that include cherries, black peppers, some licorice and a hint of peppermint. Complex but not crafty. Subtle tannins in a dark and compact matrix of dense but brilliant red and black fruit. A sliver of caramel and treacle in this delicious wine that includes oranges on a jumpy finish.

Domaine du Loup Blanc. La Mère Grand. Minervois. 2020. 95 points.

Grenache/Carignan blend aged 15 month in large tonneau barrels. Arresting aromas of dark fruit such as plums, as well as cocoa, marmalade and chocolate lava cake. Gentle and elegant acidity in the mouth. Rich and layered with flavors of black berries. Delicious. Consider pairing with a chocolate dessert or having before a glass of rum.

Domaine du Loup Blanc. Le Regal Rouge. Minervois. 2021. 94 points.

Syrah/Carignan/Grenache blend aged for a year in concrete. Rich and layered aromas that include plums, raspberries and cocoa. A bright pleasure in the mouth with flavors of red cherries and raspberries and biodynamic energy that gives a lasting finish.

Domaine de Saliès. In Situ. IGP Pays D’Oc. 2021. 90 points.

Carignan; carbonic maceration fermentation. Drinks like a similarly fermented Beaujolais. Easy drinking with slight black pepper flavors.

Babio. Nefer. 2022. 92 – 93 points.

100% Cinsault from winemakers Cécile Weissenbach and Salvy Delegue in the unique hamlet of Babio La Caunette. A brittle, crisp, pungent set of mildly tart aromas that include toffee, chocolate, prunes, raspberries and wild gorse. Firm, juicy, slippery down the throat delight with flavors that include juicy raspberries. This is a delicious wine to begin steaming full throttle ahead to enjoy a late summer afternoon of joy. Pair with goat cheese and crackers, or a main course of gravy drenched poultry—perhaps chicken or quail.

Pic de Saint-Jean. Cabernet Sauvignon. IGP Hérault Côtes du Brian. 92-93 points.

This wine is slightly anomalous in the region for two reasons—it is a monovarietal with a grape variety not commonly grown in the Languedoc. Aromas of dark Cadbury’s chocolate, moss, red plums and licorice. A succulent semi acidic blast across the tongue that suggests pairing with meat fondue. Flavors include sultanas, and a lick of Hershey’s kisses on the finish. A dark matrix with firm tannins mid palate and a light waft on the finish. This beauty grows on you as the bottle level quickly falls.

Borie de Maurel. Charivari. 2022. 92 points.

100% Grenache. Light and fruity aromas that include raspberries. In the mouth this dances on the edge of a line that separates heft from delicacy. Succulent, slippery, easy-drinking mouthful of cherries and a hit of black pepper. Light and juicy summer fare that can be paired with beef or poultry.

Domaine Cailhol Gautran. Villa Lucia. Minervois AOP. 2020. 93+ points.

A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from a limestone plateau of higher Minervois elevations. A rich, layered, complex and well-balanced wine with flavors that include chocolate and sultanas.

Borie de Maurel. Le Rosé. 2022. Vin de Montagne. 90 points.

A 50/50 blend of Syrah and an amalgamation of 60 grapes from an 1890 patch of mixed vines. Dark ruby color. Fresh and tart aromas of peach, cherry and citrus. A full and burly but silky mouthful brimming with red fruit. Easy drinking, distinct and with a clenching acidic finish. Pair with tataki tuna or a creamy cheese that will cut against the acidity.

Le Cartel. Rosé. 2020. 91 points.

From Jean-Remi Mourad and Freddi Torres comes this blend of Terret and Clairette made from old vines. Flinty, grapefruit aromas. In the mouth succulent and with an oily mouth feel. Mid palate of nectarines, cherries and raspberries. Somewhat plush and round and slightly sweet on the finish. Statured and confident.

Domaine de L’Angueven. La Promesse des Anges Rosé. 2022. 92+ points.

Made with Petit Verdot and Grenache grapes. A slippery rosé with slight minerality and raspberries mid palate. Orange and lime on the finish.

White Wines:

Borie de Maurel. La Belle Aude. Vin du Minervois. 2021. 89 points.

This Marsanne includes fresh and flinty aromas of gooseberries, sultanas and oatmeal. Rounded and tart in the mouth, slightly herbaceous with an oily mouth feel. Pair with sushi or a mint flavored dessert.

Clos du Gravillas. L’Inattendu. Minervois. 2021. 93-94 points.

From Nicole and John Bojanowski comes this blend of Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Maccabeu. Honey, grapefruit, lime, apricot and pear aromas and a smooth, oily mouth feel with rich and intense white fruit flavors enveloped in honey.

Château Coup-Roses. Argês. AOP Minervois. 2021. 90 points.

From the village of La Caunette—this wheat colored white is made from a 60/40 blend of Roussanne/Grenache Blanc and includes aromas or oranges, lime, green grass and even caramel. Unusual attack that is both delicate and sharp. Juicy mid palate with flavors of nectarine, white plums, grapefruit segments. Easy drinking with an assertive finish that includes a lick of lime. Try as an aperitif with salted cashews.