Sacai Demonstrates A More Polished Collection Aimed At Attracting A Larger Retail Customer

Elegance is not generally associated with Chitose Abe’s designs for Sacai. Hybrid, edgy, cool, and unexpected are generally more apt descriptors. At her Fall 2023 show in Paris Monday, the designer demonstrated that she could progress her brand in a new direction without losing any monikers but adding elegant, sculptural, and thought-provoking to her repertoire.

Backstage, Abe explained her approach through a translator. “It was about challenging preconceived notions and continuing to evolve that idea; somewhere between values and priorities, the Japanese concept of ‘kachican’ but also about addressing elegance.

Abe moved away from hybridization in favor of splicing. In that sense, the designer took everyday items and shifted the pattern to the left or right, adding a seam where there wouldn’t usually be one and, in most cases, added a contrasting fabric. The most striking examples were a white cotton shirt with white chiffon or the faux fur coats with part leather on one side. In the case of a full skirt style, the pattern shifted up via a strap connected to a large pocket. The construction device added volume to the skirt and allowed a built-in purse.

The Japanese desginer explained she was looking to challenge herself as a designer. This exercise usually tends to delight the fashion audience who remains jaded even when viewing a collection they adore. The designer was wearing a T-shirt with the title of a popular Radiohead song, “Everything in its Right Place,” in a nod to breaking conventional patterns and finding beauty there. Basting stitching left in place on bonded wools also spoke to this idea.

The elegance was also due in part to finer fabrics used; there was nary a nylon bomber fabric in sight. In lieu, there was grey wool suiting, tweed, and soft cashmere-finish woolens. Feminine touches also abounded with tiered ruffles, peplum hemlines, and styles such as a bustier dress with an asymmetrical hemline skirt. A taupe faux fur jacket and generous fit pants oozed late 70s glamour with a twist.

With the prominence of black and white and natty raw edge tweed section, one couldn’t help but fantasize if the collection was Abe’s trial run for the top spot at Chanel. Regardless, the Sacai woman has plenty to swoon about come fall.