Primland Resort Is A Pan-Sensual Immersive Luxury Experience For All Ages

The Southwest Highlands of Virginia is a region known for its Tuscany-like rolling hills, meandering roadways through lush forest, and uncrowded hiking and biking trails. It’s also a very rural part of the American South, where billboards with messages combining guns and God cause not even the slightest blink of an eye. In a remote corner of this remote place is a small town called Meadows of Dan, and it’s here that Primland Resort, Auberge Resorts Collection, presides over the land. Not majestically or imperiously, but rather with rooted intention.

It’s not remote, for me. My dear aunt lives in nearby Laurel Fork, and I’ve spent the last 23 years coming here, one of the most pastoral, peaceful places on earth. But I had never been to Primland until this winter, when I set off on an adventure with my aunt, my sister, and one of my dearest lifelong friends to celebrate my aunt’s 80th birthday.

When you get to the Primland gate, you’re still a long way from being there — approximately 15 more minutes by car — but it’s nice to have the time to drive through the property and start your descent into mountain relaxation mode, which, trust me, is more than a state of mind; it’s a holistic state of being. Call it the deep quiet, or call it the gracious hospitality — whatever you feel is the genesis of your almost immediate transformation probably is. For me, it’s a feeling of home, and with that, an enveloping safety, perhaps protection, even, from the world beyond. This landscape and this luxurious hotel offer just the kind of respite we all need now and again.

We checked in at the main lodge — which houses both casual and more formal restaurants, along with an indoor pool and spa — before checking into our Pinnacle Cottages Dan River suites overlooking the dramatic Dan River Gorge. Each cottage is divided into four large suites (two upstairs and two down), each with a generous sitting room with gas fireplace overlooking the view and a large bedroom (with a king or two doubles) and bathroom with a soaking tub and walk-in shower. There’s a deck that runs across the length of the living room and another that runs along side the bathroom. Everything here is designed to maximize your view of the gorge, which is magnificent in any season.

You can be as active or restful as you’d like. The hotel offers a wide range of activities including horseback riding, ATV tours, stargazing, and mountain biking, and there’s a destination spa in which you can spend the day largely horizontal. Even when it’s crowded, it never feels so, as the property site on 12,000 unspoiled acres. The four of us braved the ATV adventure, and we even opted for the most rugged version — we drove off-road to all the property’s tallest peaks for views in every direction, and then back down the muddy hillsides, through streams and meadows, to really get a sense of the whole place.

The land that Primland sites on was purchased by French oil magnate Didier Primat in 1977, primarily for lumber. While a guest lodge had long been the Primat family’s vision, it wasn’t until 2006 that the first foray was made in that direction: The Highlands Golf Course, aptly named for its rolling hills and rugged terrain, was named best public golf Course by Golf Digest magazine right out of the gate, and it continues to be held in high esteem by serious golfers. Primat died in 2008, the year before the resort proper opened to the public, but his family maintains ownership. Auberge Resorts Collection took over management in 2021.

The main lodge, conceived as a 26-suite chalet, sits on the golf course and is often bought out for private retreats, but individual rooms are also available year-round. The lodge also houses two restaurants, a small gym, a ballroom, a theater, and a 600-square-foot indoor pool. There’s a silo that adds visual appeal and sets the architectural tone. At the top is an observatory equipped for professionally guided stargazing.

While the rooms in the main lodge are spacious and comfortable, as well as close to restaurants and the spa, the various satellite suites are really special. Our view into the Dan River Gorge was mesmerizing at all times of day, and the absence of bright lights at night means that the night sky is often crystal clear for stargazing. You can summon a hotel shuttle at any time to take you to the main lodge, the activity center, or the saloon.

There are two main restaurants onsite: Elements is the fine-dining venue, open for breakfast and dinner, and the 19th Pub serves more casual lunch and dinner options. But the funnest of all is Stables Saloon, where there’s live bluegrass music Thursday-Saturday and traditional Southern food, served family-style — think fried catfish, ribs, macaroni and cheese and cornbread.

The spa specializes in reiki, hot stone massage, and classic Swedish techniques, and packages are available; there’s also a full hair and nail salon.

When I go back, I want to stay in one of the treehouses, all of which have very dramatic views across the gorge. (A few more are currently being built, accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles, which the hotels loans out to guests.)

What’s most special about Primland is its off-the-grid location, which makes it easy to unplug. Many staff are locals and longtime employees who are the historic memory of the place and have stories about the property’s early days. Primland doesn’t just feel remote, it is remote, and the plan to keep most of the 12,000 acres as undeveloped woodlands results in an experience of solitude in nature for guests. It’s luxurious, yes, and Auberge is bringing in even more creature comforts each year, but the magic of Primland is its proximity to wild nature — it’s an immersive offering, rare these days even in the luxury space. My advice? Go, see, do and be. Visit the Primland, Auberge Resorts Collection website for more information and to make reservations.