Legally Braiding In The United States Shouldn’t Be So Hard

Ashley N’Dakpri runs a braiding salon in Gretna, Louisiana but it’s almost impossible for her to find braiders who can work legally. Why? Because Louisiana is one of only 13 states that still require braiders to attend a cosmetology school and get a state license. But, hopefully, a proposed change to regulations will make it easier for her to run her business.

Louisiana braiders need 500 hours of school, but most of them already have the skills they need to work for Ashley before they even darken the door of a school. Worse still for aspiring braiders, not every cosmetology school in Louisiana teaches the skill. So braiders who want to get on the right side of the law might have to travel hours to get training they don’t need.

Before 2003, braiders weren’t subject to any sort of license. But in a phenomenon that was well-documented in a recent book, The Licensing Racket, the state cosmetology board used its power to create a license and to create penalties for practicing without it: a $5,000 fine for every time someone braids without a license. To reiterate, without the involvement of the Louisiana legislature, the board created a new civil penalty.

Three decades ago, licensing regulation on braiding was especially burdensome. Many states required braiders to get full cosmetology licenses that taught subjects braiders weren’t interested in like heat techniques and dyeing. Traditional African braiding doesn’t use chemicals, just hands on methods that many women learn as children from their mothers and grandmothers.

As many African American women became more interested in natural hair styling, the licensing barrier made it hard for them to find salons and braiders that were practicing on the right side of the law. But through both lawsuits and legislation, braiders across the United States started to lift the licensing burden.

Legislative Relief Might Be on the Way

Louisiana however has stubbornly clung to its requirement. For years, courts have rejected lawsuits and legislators have failed to come together on proposed reforms. But finally a breakthrough has come.

This week, the state house will consider a compromise proposal that will let braiders practice legally by getting a special permit instead of a license. Braiders would be required to review sanitation training and pass a 20-question exam. These braiders wouldn’t be able to work in a regular salon, but they could work in dedicated braiding salons like the one Ashley operates.

It would be welcome news for Louisiana braiders who have looked longingly across the border at Mississippi braiders for two decades. At roughly the same time the Pelican State was creating a braiding license, Mississippian Melony Armstrong was fighting against her state’s requirement that braiders get 3,200 hours of training that didn’t include braiding as a subject. Her story became a feature film last year, Freedom Hair.

Other States Could Follow Louisiana

Success in Louisiana would shift the spotlight to other states that have fallen behind the curve on reform. Hawaii is the only state in the U.S. to still require a full cosmetology license for braiding. A bill to exempt braiding died earlier this year.

A task force created by the Illinois Legislature last year recommended repealing the state’s braiding license. Companion bills to do that are working their way through the state house and state senate.

There’s also movement in New York to reduce required hours of training from 300 to 40. That would still make the Empire State’s requirements more onerous than most states, but it is movement in the right direction.

Broadly Rethinking Licensing

Some of the reluctance to pass reform comes from braiders who went through licensing processes and feel their government stamp of approval raises their stature. But there are better ways to signify quality than government restrictions that come with criminal penalties.

In Great Britain, there is little red tape for individuals who want to get their start in hair styling and barbering. For those who want to demonstrate their skill, there is a voluntary certification process. So rather than having to pay up front for schooling, cosmetologists and barbers can start earning money quickly and work their way up the ladder.

In the U.S., most cosmetologists finance their schooling. On average, cosmetology students take out $7,100 in student loans, $600 more than the average student loan burden. Too many then end defaulting on these loans because the average wages for the profession are only around $26,000 annually.

Hopefully the time has come for Louisiana to join all its neighboring states—Mississippi, Texas, and Arkansas—and drop the braiding license. Every day without reforming regulations is another day that a Louisiana woman isn’t using her skills to earn a living.