Exploring The ‘Gem’ Of Far West Texas, Dell Valley Vineyards

Everyone knows that “everything’s bigger in Texas,” but the cliché is not completely infallible. Texas currently has 8 American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), and, it’s true, two of them are very big—both in terms of their production share in the state (at least for one) as well as in terms of their geographic size (for both). The Texas High Plain AVA is 8+ million acres large and is where approximately 80 percent of Texas fruit is grown. However, slightly larger still than the High Plains, is the Hill Country AVA, which is the third largest AVA in the United States, at over 9 million acres in size.

The Texas Hill Country AVA also serves as the locus of wine tourism in the state—as well as home base for much of the state’s wine production, despite its distance from the major growing region in the state, the Texas High Plains. However, Texans do not do anything “little”—including wine production logistics! But, putting the spatial dynamics of the Texas industry aside for a moment (though, you can read more about it here), there is one newly proposed AVA in Texas which is bucking the trend on “big.”

Meet the Dell Valley AVA (proposed)

In comparison to its behemoth siblings, the proposed Dell Valley AVA is micro-sized; it is basically one (150-acre) vineyard situated in the midst of an agricultural valley focused primarily on other commodities (like cotton and alfalfa). But no matter its small (relative) stature, the region is making a big splash. Namely, its remote location, unique environmental context, and surprising fruit quality has Texas winegrowers and winemakers very excited about what’s happening there.

According to Chris Brundrett, co-founder and CEO of William Chris Wine Company, the state’s leading producer of Texas-grown wine, says of Dell Valley Vineyards: “The team out there (Danny, MJ and Phillipé [“Frenchey”]) are fantastic to work with, making the long drive out there worth it. They are always striving to raise the bar and I love that.”

Dr. Justin Scheiner (of Texas A&M), who prepared the petition to form the Dell Valley AVA, said the Dell Valley growing region was originally submitted under the name “Hidden Waters.” However, according to the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) officer who manages the AVA regulatory process, there was not enough name recognition with that moniker (as major stipulation for the creation of a new, federally recognized AVA), so the petition was modified to “Dell Valley” instead.

The magic, mystery, and menace in high elevation viticulture

The 25,000 acre valley in the Chihuahuan Desert of West Texas (located approximately 20 miles west of the Guadalupe Mountains and 75 miles east of El Paso) “used to grow everything, it used to be a diverse agricultural area,” according to Phillipe Littot, long-time vineyard manager for Dell Valley Vineyards, the principle (and, currently, only) viticultural operation in the region. He indicated that “there used to be packaging plants for vegetables [and other related businesses],” but “like all shrinking small towns, things have gone away.” He noted that the population of Dell City, the urban “hub” of the valley, “went from 3000 people down to 300.”

And indeed a remote high desert locale with a low (and declining) population (namely, Hudspeth County, TX), is not the kind of place you’d think of as a “booming” with anything; however, in the small-but-mighty world of Texas wine, you’d be mistaken.

Dell Valley Vineyards in Far West Texas is practicing “extreme viticulture” at their high elevation site, according to Michael Bilger, co-owner (and winemaker, and vineyard manager…) at Adega Vinho. He says, “Unfortunately, the Chihuahuan Desert site has the potential to throw some curveballs at the vineyard, from high winds, drought, late spring freezes and hail. Despite these challenges, the grapes are consistently stellar, vintage after vintage.”

A commitment to quality wine, above all

Phillipe, Dell Valley’s vineyard manager says: “We are producing high quality reds. Even though we have bad water, bad ground, we are producing some of the best red grapes in Texas.” It’s quite the statement, and, when I asked around my network, no one had anything to say that might contradict him.

For my part, it was a white wine (not a red) from the region (Wine For The People’s La Valentía Dell Valley Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc) that really grabbed me by the shoulders and made me pay attention. Thus, following his (seemingly rightful) praise for the reds, I reminded Phillipe that wines made with his white grapes are also winning awards and garnering high praise. Phillipe then acknowledged the “special growing conditions” in the vineyard, indicating that the white whites are pretty special, too.

Rae Wilson, founder and winemaker at Wine for the People, said of Dell Valley: “The unique character of the whites made from this vineyard show a very special sense of place. There’s a brightness to the fruit, a strong mineral backbone, and a hint of salinity that accentuates the palate. As a winemaker, it’s where the mystery meets the science. Working to express that kind of specificity is a dream.”

Now that the region is properly on my radar, I have been seeing the fruits of Dell Valley Vineyard in action in the portfolios of many of my favorite Texas wine producers. Indeed, the list of wineries working with fruit from Dell Valley VIneyards reads like a who’s-who of quality wine producers in the state: Adega Vinho, Sandy Road, Calais/French Connection, Ron Yates/Spicewood, William Chris Wine Company, Wine for the People, Ab Astris, and more.

Plus, the accolades for the wines have been flowing (for some excellent examples see Jim Gordon’s recent reviews of Texas wines at www.JamesSucking.com) and many awards have recently been bestowed on Texas bottles.

Praise and plaudits

As for Texas winemakers themselves, when I asked some wine-friends for their thoughts on the wine growing area, there was only praise to be found:

• “It is a gem of a vineyard; old vines, great varietals planted, well maintained, in a great little microclimate in far west Texas.” (Mike Nelson of Ab Astris Winery)
• “Dell Valley Vineyard (DVV) bleeds the pioneering spirit of growing premium wine grapes in this great state of Texas! Speaking in pop cultural terms, the DVV is the UNICORN GOAT of all Texas vineyards because of its location.” (Michael Bilger of Adega Vinho)
• “Both the place and the farming make Dell Valley Vineyard special. Its high altitude is great for having cold nights that keeps the acidity in the grapes and it shows through in the wines.” (Bryan Chagoly of Sandy Road Vineyards)
• ”It’s 100% a unique site. It has large diurnal swings that makes for a totally different style of wine than other areas. The tannins are brawlier than our other sites for sure, which really wants to make age worthy red wines.” (Ben Calais of Calais Winery and French Connection)
• “Tony Offill [head winemaker] and I love producing wine from a majestic place like Dell Valley. It’s some of the highest elevation wine growing in the world, at 3700 feet right below Guadalupe peak. The limestone resting underneath the southernmost tip of the Rocky Mountains can produce some very intense wines that are truly one of a kind.” (Chris Brundrett of William Chris Wines)

Clearly, there is something legendary fermenting in Texas’ Dell Valley. If you haven’t yet tried it for yourself yet, it’s about time to go find yourself something special.