A Journey By Train Through Italy’s Regions Is A Gastronomic Delight

Exposition universelle 1900. Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits, 1900. Private Collection. Artist Ochoa y Madrazo, Rafael de (1858-1935). (Photo by by Fine Art Images/Heritage Images via Getty Images)

Heritage Images via Getty Images

The moment you step onto the Orient Express, you are quickly whisked away to another world. But this is not a journey of escapism, on the contrary, its an experience where you can see and experience the world from a new vantage point.

The Orient Express was originally ideated in 1882, by Georges Nagelmackers, a Belgian banker’s son who had a bevy of connections throughout the world. He began to invite those friends and confidants onto the railway trip, the first of its kind, known at the time as the lightning luxury train. Transforming train travel from purely utilitarian to a luxurious escape, making the journey part of the trip itself. Allowing guests to sleep aboard in comfortable, opulent rooms, dine on food made by renowned chefs paired with wines chosen by a sommelier. Setting off a whole new type of travel for the time.

This kind of train travel was its most popular during the 1930’s. Famously, one of the Orient Express train cars, the Compiègne Wagon to be exact, was where two armistice deals were signed. The Armistice of November 11, 1918 was what ended the First World War and the second Armistice deal in June 22, 1940 entailed France’s surrender in the Second World War. It could be argued that inside the comfort and opulence of these train cars, the idea of war continuing really does lose its luster.

But as travel technology progressed, and newer, faster modes of travel took over, the bygone era of the slower, more romantic train seemed to also vanish with the war.

Today however, slower travel is having a resurgence, a way to experience the world, savor it, every last drop of it. As countless conflicts rage throughout the world – to be on board the Orient Express La Dolce Vita is not only a welcome luxurious experience, its something the well-traveled are craving. It all begins at the Hotel Minerva, where guests are brought the day before their train trip begins. It is also a way to explore the gastronomy of the regions of Italy in a different way.

Like the meals aboard, all curated by Three Michelin Star chef, Heinz Beck. His crew on board prepare all the meals eaten by the guests. A breakfast of warm pastries, croissants, jams and honeys inspired by the destinations a guest will be going to. When not on land, the lunches and dinners are all inspired by ingredients and flavor profiles of the cities that will be ventured through, deeping the curated experience to the destination.

From Rome to Venice, guests can cross the most scenic routes seeing how the Italian morphology landscape changes across the peninsula. From the coast of Tuscany to the Ligurian seaside and finally to the first stop of Venice.

Before heading to dinner on the main island of Venice, there are a few ways to distill those precious hours on land. First, an aperitif of cicchetti, these are small pre dinner bites of antipasto that pair perfectly with a glass of Valpolicella, made with a blend of Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinare grapes. A classic baccala mantecato on a piece of grilled or fried polenta or a crostino bread with egg and anchovy paired with a glass of that famed Valpoliccella at Cantina Do Spade provides that quintessential Venetian moment.

You may also hear the sound of that quintessential Venetian moment “Oooee!” is, often, shouted by a Gondoliere. This is the loud sound the men who row the gondola boats bellow to one another to avoid canal traffic.

Before heading to dinner, a stroll past the St. Mark’s Basilica, which the city of Venice traces its founding back 1,600 years ago is a welcome site. According to Catholic tradition, Venice was founded on March 25, 421, the moment construction of the Church began. And hundreds of years later, the Basilica still remains one of its most iconic monuments of the city.

Venice is a city that overflows with art. From the architecture alone, but the museums offer so much context to this city. The Fortuny Museum is one of the lesser known hubs of art that was part of not only Venetian history, but Italian cultural history. The Museum is inside the former home and studio of Mariano Fortuny, who fell in love with Venice, and it is here that he became a prolific multimedia artist. Fashion and design aficionados will know that Fortuny also became a renowned designer, making Mussolini’s girlfriend her iconic dresses that she would wear along the founder of Fascism’s side. Today it has even become a brand reconstructing the original pieces of the time, from clothing to lampshades that use unique techniques to gather and layer silks and cottons.

After a stoll through the halls of the home of Fortuny, one will inevitably become pekish, a delightful meal of risotto with fresh river shellfish and wild asparagus can be had in the local Ristorante Antico Martini. A mainstay in the region. Established in 1720, the Antico Martini is where Stravinsky and Charlie Chaplin would frequent when visiting the city and it still holds the panache that Venice continues to exude.

You feel almost inhibited by the opulent amount of history that etches every cobblestoned street and piazza. But the train takes off soon and you have to dash to the train to head to your next destination, racing through where Casanova and Tintoretto would woo lovers and sketch from cafes like Cafe Florian, the oldest operating in Italy.

The next stop is Portofino, but before you arrive, a band playing music that continues to transport guests through various golden eras of Italy. Now you return to the Dolce Vita of the 1960s, With the songs of 1960s Italy. “Oh sole mio” envelopes you.

Upon arriving at Santa Margherita Ligure, one must do as the locals have been doing for hundreds of years. A snack of focaccia Genovese, as has been done since the Medieval era, is required to prepare you for the walk along the Italian Riviera.

High up on top of the hill of Portofino, the Agririfugio Molini where courses to make the local delicacy of pesto, can be had. Large marble mortars to pestle fresh basil and lightly toasted pine nuts and copious amounts of bright olive oil and parmigiano with a clove of fragrant garlic. Its not simple to do this as was done once upon a time. Its a long process, but the flavor, the freshness this simple but stunning sauce has on freshly made trofie or fettucine is something that can inspire tears. Because this simple dish exudes what true luxury is now, our time and to savor every morstle of it.