Cape Town, Puglia, Provence & Bordeaux Wines To Try This Fall

The following wines made from eleven grape varieties in two hemispheres share a simple characteristic—they come from well established wineries that are between ninety and nine hundred years old.

South Africa – Western Cape

Klein Constantia. Vin de Constance. 2020. 98—99 points.

From a winery established in the year 1685, Vin de Constance was enjoyed by French Queen Marie Antoinette and Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte as well as by U.S. presidents George Washington and John Adams. It was also mentioned in writing by English novelist Jane Austen in her 1795 book Sense and Sensibility. Made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes, this South African wine comes from a sunny estate located east of Hout Bay and five miles south of Table Mountain. Explosive aromas of guava, mandarin, pineapple and apricot from a yellow-gold colored juice that appears to generate its own light. Full, rich, decadent and layered tropical flavors that evolve noticeably in the glass with time and temperature. Liquid pleasure. We tasted this with Dutch sommelier Marcel van Baalen at his renowned restaurant L’Atelier in Caunes-Minervois in southern France. His description: ‘Golden magic.’

Klein Constantia. South Africa. Vin de Constance. 2019. 98—99 points.

Aromas of honey, peaches, white pears, roasted apples and mint leaves. A kaleidoscopic miasma of flavors mid palate—a ticklish swirl, a golden stream of liquid Bartlett pears and fresh green apples and dark oranges mid palate. Textured, toned and with glowing embers of citric and spring orchard flavors. As always, a seductively attractive delight.

Italy – Puglia

Produttori Vini Manduria. Alice. Verdeca Salento. IGT. 2022. 91+ points.

From the oldest wine cooperative in Puglia, established in 1929. Made from the Verdeca grape. Aromas of strawberries, lime and honey. Beautiful oily mouth feel and flavors of green apples and grapefruit and gooseberries mid palate and mandarins on the finish. A sleek and easy drinking wine to be paired with—a neighboring American musician sagely suggests—pasta fettuccine and salmon.

Produttori di Manduria. Lirica Primitivo di Manduria. DOC. 2020. 93 points.

From handpicked Primitivo grapes. Aromas of chocolate Bourbon biscuits, Lapsang Souchong tea, malt balls, sultanas, molasses and tobacco. A crisp and textured mouthful that includes a mid-palate of dark fruit, mocha, cola and silky tannins, with a hearty cherry and treacle finish. Pair this with a beef and tomato dish or a dessert of black cherry ice cream. Warm and welcoming.

Torrevento. Castel del Monte. Ottagono Nero di Troia. DOCG. Red Riserva. 2014. 94 points.

Founded exactly one century ago by Francesco Liantonio, after he made his fortune in New York and returned to Puglia in Italy. Made from the Nero di Troia grape. A basket of aromas that include red plums, prunes, violets, wood smoke and orange peels. Layered, smooth, quite elegant with mid palate flavors that include treacle, black cherries and red currants. A sleek and easy drinking delight. Versatile and could be paired with a range of dishes—appetizer, main course or dessert.

France – Provence

Château de Berne. Romance Rosé. 2022. 90 points.

This estate has produced grapes since the time of Romans, and in the 13th century the Count of Toulouse donated the grapes to the Cistercian Order of monks. A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Merlot. Striking aromas with flavors that include tropicals. Distinct, zesty, perky and slightly tart mid palate. Pair with goat cheese and spinach, or with calamari.

Château de Berne. Inspiration. Côtes de Provence. 2022. 91 points.

Blend of Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Syrah. Aromas of strawberries and a lick of violets. In the mouth a slick and sleek mouthful that is mouthwatering and mildly acidic. Pair with salmon.

France – Bordeaux

Château Brown. Pessac-Leognan. 2021. 95 points.

Established in the 12th century, this wine château was named after John Lewis Brown from Scotland, who settled in the region in 1795. This 70/30 blend of Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon includes beautifully layered and concentrated aromas of honey and nuts as well as some grapefruit, tangerines and salt. Rounded with occasional sharp angles in the mouth and balanced acidity. Minerality that derives from punching down the Semillon and a mid palate that includes nuttiness and some spearment and mint on the finish. More attractive with every sip.

Château Brown. Pessac-Leognan. 2022. 92 points.

A 75/25 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend that includes crisp and mildly tart aromas of spearmint and limes. Light wine with balanced acidity and flavors of tangerines and grapefruit. Well done for a harvest that proved difficult for whites due to the excessive heat.

Château Brown. Pessac-Leognan. 2022. 97 points.

A 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot. Aromas of raspberries and a little caramel. Fresh mid palate of black fruit, strawberries, licorice as well as some treacle and spice; rich and layered with a taste that lingers and is like a meal itself. Supple and balanced tannins. Long finish. Outstanding.